By E.T. MOORE
If you’re not paying attention, you could end up driving past Pat’s Pub and Grill without noticing it was there. Located along a sparse stretch of U.S. 30 in Fayetteville, Pa., this traditional American restaurant offers robust fare in a comfortable setting.
Pulling into what appeared to be the gravel parking lot of a roadside honky-tonk bar, we hoped for the best from what seemed an unlikely candidate for quality food. In fact, prior to Pat’s opening two years ago, the location was more bar than restaurant.
However, we decided to judge Pat’s by the story it was about to tell and wrote off the exterior as unassuming.
Once inside, we were introduced to a large, but intimate dining room. A horseshoe-shaped oak bar extended from the kitchen area, giving dimension to an otherwise square room. Metal-framed, padded chairs hugged tables topped with white tablecloths, candles and flowers. The decor evoked a wedding reception ambiance.
Homey decorations and the family-like staff work to sedate the dining area, turning an otherwise banquet hall-like setting into an intimate room.
We visited Pat’s the night before New Year’s Eve and it was fairly busy. Around 80 percent of the tables were occupied by 8 p.m. Our table was ready, but, in keeping with the spirit of the holidays, we felt obligated to start our evening off with a drink at the inviting bar. Pulling up stools, we were handed impressive wine and beer menus.
You can tell a lot about a restaurant from its wine and beer selection. The quality of the list typically extends to the quality of the food and service. Pat’s clearly put a lot of thought into its list. The offerings were extensive, with around 100 varieties of bottled beer, including many wonderful Belgians. In fact, the collection has become a trademark of Pat’s.
The wines were no exception. House options were atypical and included glasses from Australia and California. Bottled choices were reasonably priced and also diverse. If the drink list was an indication of what was to come next, Pat’s provided a stellar first impression.
Excited by the challenge of whittling the list down to one apiece, we took a deep breath in preparation for the task at hand. And what a refreshing breath it was. Pat’s is a nonsmoking establishment – a little bit of New York and California introduced to Fayetteville.
After imbibing, we settled in at our table.
The menu predominantly focused on steak and seafood, although other dishes were included to round it out. The owner, Pat Young, created the menu with local tastes in mind. He based the entrées on what proved popular at several area restaurants for which he worked, including a stint as chef at the Chambersburg Country Club.
Judging by the menu descriptions, the entrées appeared basic and unimaginative. Some menu items had about as much detail as labels on supermarket-wrapped meat and fish packages.
Prices ranged from $13.95 to $23.95, requiring an expensive leap of faith when ordering. Fortunately, what we ordered proved to be much more elaborate than the menu indicated.
The only other difficulty with the menu was finding healthy, diet-minded options. Many of the dishes were heavy with butter, cream and cheese spread throughout.
Pat told us this was in line with the current winter menu, which is a bit richer. The menu changes at least three times a year, so expect lighter dishes in the summer.
There was a vegetable stir-fry offering, but because of the poor description, I didn’t want to risk ordering that over more taste-worthy alternatives.
A variety of meat cuts were available, although the prime rib, a popular leftover from the previous owners’ menu, only is served on Friday and Saturday nights. There also were a number of seafood dishes, including crab, scallop and shrimp plates, along with a few finned friends. Pasta options included two tossed with chicken and another with mixed seafood.
A choice of one or two sides – a salad, potato or vegetable – comes with each entree, depending on the type of dish.
Immediately after ordering, the bread basket arrived. Instead of restaurant standard rolls, we were surprised to find delicious, homemade, cake-like pumpkin and zucchini bread.
The salad included with my entree arrived quickly and was a leaf above iceberg, with fresh romaine, red onion, cucumber and tomato. Most of the dressings were homemade, including the vinaigrette and the blue cheese.
I ordered the 14-ounce pork chop, caramelized on the grill and finished in the oven with a balsamic vinegar glaze. It came with a side of Yukon Gold mashed potatoes. Cooked to perfection, the pork was juicy and tender, and the balsamic wasn’t overpowering.
My dining partner ordered the seafood pasta dish served with scallops, gulf shrimp and crabmeat over angel hair noodles. The flavor of the seafood stood out nicely. It was sautéed in olive oil, garlic and shallots, then deglazed with white wine and finished off with Pat’s homemade seafood stock.
Pat said he prides himself on using quality ingredients for his predominantly homemade delights. This is especially true for his desserts. Pat bragged about one favorite – a homemade chocolate ice cream made with Young’s Double Chocolate Stout beer.
Regretfully, we passed on dessert after being satiated by the large and filling entrées.
The staff was young and polite, making us wonder if they were related to Pat. Not trained in fine-dining etiquette, they tended to be a little aggressive, but it didn’t detract from the experience.
While the prices on the menu didn’t match the unpretentious setting and standard fare offerings, the entrées proved to be well-prepared and quite tasty.
Our parting impression was that while Pat’s may not be the most adventurous culinary experience, it’s probably a consistent performer, serving quality basics with flair.
Restaurant reviews are contributed bi-weekly by Herald-Mail staff writers and editors alternating under the pseudonym E.T. Moore. For questions or tips, call Lifestyle Editor Jake Womer at 301-733-5131, ext. 2340, or e-mail lifestyle@herald-mail.com.
Pat’s Pub and Grill
n Food: 3 forks (out of 4)
n Service: 3 forks (out of 4)
n Atmosphere: 3 forks (out of 4)
n Value: 2 forks (out of 4)
Hours: Lunch hours are 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday. Dinner is served from 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 5 to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Closed Sunday.
Prices: $13.95 to $23.95 for dinner entrees.
Hours: Tuesday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 9 p.m. During the summer, dinner is from 4 to 8 p.m. to accommodate the theater crowd. Reservations recommended.
Credit cards: Visa and MasterCard accepted.
Phone: 1-717-352-3998
Location: 6418 Chambersburg Road, Fayetteville, Pa.; on U.S. 30 about two miles east of Caledonia State Park
